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Three days in Venice -
A Romantic Partnership
Introduction I hear you say “Is there anything new which can be added to the vast amounts of information and images already published about Venice?” I admit that there are many more articles and images of Venice than most other cities but this is an indication of the wealth of photographic opportunities available and I hope that my personal experiences recounted below will help you to exploit the full potential of this fascinating and magical place. (see Lee Frost’s article for more Venice information) Day One I had resisted the pressure for many years but my scepticism relented and I agreed that for my wife’s ‘special’ birthday treat we would take a short break to Venice, and so it was than in late October 2003 we arrived at Marco Polo Airport complete with a Lowepro rucksack full of photo gear for a romantic partnership!
From the very outset you realise that Venice is no ordinary place. The transfer from the airport, whether by private water taxi or public water bus, immediately sets the scene for the most amazing city experience in Europe and probably in the world. This is a special place where the main ingredients of modern architecture (concrete, steel and reflective glass) are hardly seen but in its place is a manmade landscape second to none, a living and working museum piece. Disembarking at Fundamenta Nuove we set off to find our hotel. A map is invaluable because the labyrinth of canals and streets would otherwise be impossible to navigate to a required location. The first sights of gondolas thrill us as we head towards Rialto now wandering free, map in pocket to allow us to take in the surroundings. Signs to San Marco, Rialto and Accademia are everywhere (sometimes conflicting which adds to the adventure) so it’s not possible to become irretrievably lost. Photo opportunities abound everywhere, but taking the time out from discovering what is round the next corner becomes irritating and we continue onwards past shops adorned with masks of all shapes, sizes and colours. As if by preordained directive we come out at the Accademia Bridge where the scene of the low afternoon sun on the Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute could easily have been painted by Cannaletto. Unfortunately capturing the image on film was not quite so easy! We continue and enter Piazza San Marco for the first time……..wow, what a magnificent square. The Basilica and Campanile dominate the scene and the low sun catches gilded mosaics under the arches. Awe struck we wander round the square and past the Doge’s palace down towards the gondola station at San Zaccaria. Inevitably the whole scene has a familiarity from images previously seen in brochures, magazines and photo galleries, but the magic prevails.
Down at the water’s front there are throngs of people, almost everybody has a camera. Every conceivable type and make is represented from the ubiquitous digital compact through top end digital SLRs to Hasselblads etc. The light fades slowly and as the majestic beauty of the location matures, you are compelled to drink in the total romance of the place. It is truly magnificent. It seems unforgivable to hide behind the viewfinder for more than the absolute minimum time. I eventually become frustrated by the number of people and we jump on a Vaporetto expecting to travel up to Rialto, but it heads off in the opposite direction! No worries, we alight at the next stop and wait the next boat in the direction we required. Whilst waiting I try to capture the scene but the long time exposure defeats me. The return journey up the Grand Canal rounded off the first days magic; passing the floodlit Palazzos still with wonderful colour in the sky and the inky dark waters with Venice’s own style of rush hour traffic plying in every direction. We managed to get a good vantage point beside the ‘driving’ cabin. Although it was cold I am sure that with a monopod and digital flexibility on ISO, amazing grab shots could be captured but planning and good composition would be devilishly difficult!
Day Two We tend to be early risers but dawn shots, even in October, are just a bit too early when in touristic mode and I am sure I would have been shot at dawn (see Lee Frost’s article of the same title) if I had tried! However, we made it down to San Marco before nine! I was quite intrigued to find the tide coming up through the grills in the centre of the square. We joined the still short queue to ascend the Campanile, it was a bright sunny and clear morning and fantastic views were available. Back in San Marco, what to tackle next? We decide to go into the Doge’s Palace before the crowds overwhelm us. We spend all morning marvelling at the history, art and architecture of this magnificent palace and experience the prisoners’ last sight of the outside world as we cross the Bridge of Sighs and the austere conditions in the prison. We emerge around midday to find water levels rising and a long queue on the raised walkway waiting to view the Basilica. We decide to head for Murano for lunch and a look at the glass works. Quite a different atmosphere to the main city, more laid back and less frenetic. Galleries and shops full of colourful glass sculptures of all shapes and sizes, many with workshops where the art can be seen as it is created. Fascinating portraits shots of glassblowers at work are available. We returned to San Marco by late afternoon and joined the slightly depleted queue for the Basilica. It is rather dimly lit but nonetheless grand and spiritual. The extra cost to visit the Loggia dei Cavalli with the four (replica) horses of Constantinople is well worth it for the views of the Doge’s Palace with the water front and also of the Campanile.
We meander back to Rialto and were ‘entertained’ by a masked ‘Casinova’ chatting up two young tourists (female) in a bar whilst his partner (also female) finished her drink round the corner! Day Three Unfortunately it was raining but we spent the day visiting art galleries, churches and hostelries mainly on the far side on the Grand Canal. We inevitably got lost and had to resort to the map on several occasions for assistance. But even on a day like this there are photo opportunities to be found, just try to avoid the grey skies! We also took a trip to the Lido which had the air of an affluent leafy suburb and to the Ghetto area with its multi storey accommodation. Our departure was fairly early the following day, which happened to be Hallowe’en. Before we headed for the Water Bus to Marco Polo we walked over to the markets at Rialto. They were buzzing with activity. Stalls selling all manner of fish, vegetables and every day wares for the Venetian public. It is truly difficult to remember that this remains to be a working, commercial city, the same as any other in Europe. Perhaps the most poignant reminder of this was whilst waiting for the water bus when we saw a steady stream of Venetians laden with floral tributes waiting for the special boat service to the cemeteries to remember their ancestors for All Saints the following day. What an amazing and unique place Venice is for a romantic partnership. Travel Tips
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