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Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Pete Emery

 

Since 2001 I have been making a regular trip to the Island of Skomer. Located off the Pembrokshire coast the island and its wildlife are managed by the Wildlife Trust of South Wales. Measuring one and a half miles by a mile, the island plays host to nearly half a million seabirds during summer and provides photographers with some excellent photographic opportunities.

Directions and Options

Day Trips

Skomer caters for up to 250 visitors each day throughout the summer months. Access is gained through a 20 minute boat ride from Martins Haven.

Finding the boarding point is a feat in itself and follows a journey through narrow country lanes. To get to the point follow the B4327 from Harverford wests and follow it until you reach the turning for Marloes Road. Continue through Marloes until you reach the car park. Once parked, there is a half mile walk down to the coast to catch the boat.

Boat Departures
Weather allowing, boats depart at 10:00a.m, 11:00a.m and 12:00 noon. The time available on the island is driven by weather conditions but return journeys usually begin around 15:00hrs with the last boat usually at 16:00. It can get very busy and I recommend that you arrive at least 30 minutes before departure

Charges for 2005 –

Boat Fare
Adults - £8
Children £5
There is also a landing fee paid of £6 payable on arrival.

 

On the Island
On arrival at the island you are met with a steep climb, although the steps are well cut. It is around the landing point that you will get the best view of the razor bills. These are perched on the rocks in and around the cliffs at the landing stage. If choosing to photograph them, take care with exposure, I recommend metering off the rocks and dialling in the results with the camera set on manual. Digital users have the option of checking the histogram.

Once you have made the short climb to the top of the landing area, the Warden will provide a brief talk on the Do’s and Don’ts as well as providing some pointers for things to watch out for. Maps and bottled water can be purchased at this point.The briefing completed you are free to follow the well marked paths around the island.

 

You will see plenty of puffins at close range around the landing point and a 70-200mm zoom will enable close up shots of the birds at the burrow as well as the chance to practice some” in flight” shots. Most people however head straight for the wick. This is well signposted. On the way look out for short eared owls, although these are usually seen in the evening, (if you stay overnight) I have never failed to see one as part of the first landing party as the visitors disturb the undergrowth. Once at the Wick you will be greeted by a cacophony of noise as Storm Petrels, Gulls Fulmars and Guillemots compete for space and food around the cliffs. You may also see Kittiwakes here. The spectacular backdrop of shear cliffs stretch away from your approach for some quarter of a mile and are packed with sea birds. but it’s at you feet the main puffin colony is situated.

It is very difficult to photograph the Guillemots against the grey (volcanic) rock face but the puffins are not camera shy and are close enough to shoot with a short range zoom. You can easily achieve frame filling shots of the head and the famous beak, or choose to shoot against the blue background of the sea. There is plenty of opportunity to photography colony behaviour and from mid June you will see parents returning with sand eels to feed the chicks.

Make sure you take a tripod and a bean bag for low level shots. Its worth noting that the wind blows big style even on good days and if you need to change lenses on a digital SLR make sure you take real care . I ended up with some very spotty images on one occasion.

Often, on the day trip, the time taken at the wick results in the rest of the island remaining undiscovered. If you can drag yourself away, there are many other areas of interest. At the centre of the island lies the remains of an old 18th century farmhouse that also hosts the visitor centre. This island visitor accommodation is situated here for those who have booked to stay overnight as well as the residence for volunteers and research students.

 

During June the fields in front of the farmhouse provide opportunities to photograph Curlews and Oystercatchers as well as Skomer rabbits. Should you have booked to stay overnight, short eared owls can be easily seen during the evening in the fields at the side of the main farmhouse building.

In 2004 there was also a pair of Barn Owls nesting in the farmhouse remains. The Path from the Farmhouse brings you back to the landing and departure stage. To your right you will see spectacular views near the warden’s residence.

Overnight
For the true Skomer experience it is worth staying on the island overnight. This can only be booked well in advance through the islands booking office. Although this is not available during 2005 due to refurbishment of the accommodation, it will be worth booking this in 2006. Once the day visitors leave at around 16:00, only a handful of people are left on the island.

At midnight the elusive Manx Shearwaters (gulls on night shift) emerge from their burrows and the sky is once again filled with noise. The islands landscape affords plenty of opportunity for dramatic photographs at sunset. The grey seal colony can also often be seen in the early evening as they bathe in the last of the sunlight.If you are staying overnight the Warden will take your “luggage” from you at the landing point and take it to the accommodation in the tractor!

What to take:

Camera Equipment:

Remember you have a couple of miles to walk and I have seen people staggering around with very large lenses. It is not necessary on Skomer!

Camera Body and Plenty of spare batteries (Note there are no facilities to charge up batteries!)
Lenses from 17mm to 400mm
The 100-400 is ideal or 70-200 and a 1.4 or 2x converter.
Tripod/bean bag for low angle perspectives.
Angle finder you have one.

Clothing

  • Walking boots
  • Waterproof Jacket
  • Clothing appropriate for the time of year

Others

  • Torch!
  • Food and Water if staying overnight!

Contact and further information:
Overnight accommodation gets booked up early and you will need to book in January to secure a place. Living accommodation is basic but comfortable with up to 3 people sharing a “chalet”

The Islands Booking Office
The Welsh Wildlife Centre
Cilgerran
Cardigan
SA43 2TB

Tel 01239 621600

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